In Sweden, I lived near a village thirty minutes from the university town, Uppsala. Travel into Stockholm took about 2 hours by bus and commuter train. I went into Stockholm to go to church or meet a friend, and on each trip I usually tried to learn something new about the city and it’s many lovely neighborhoods.
Gamla Stan, or Old Town, Stockholm is located on one small island of cobblestone streets. Now the city spreads out over seventeen islands across both the Baltic Sea and massive Lake Mälaren. For this reason, one of the loveliest and most relaxing ways to see Stockholm is from the water. The 2-hour Stromma boat tour runs every hour during the summer months and gives you a good orientation to key sites and history of the city. When you get back on land, you can learn about Sweden through three special museums:
The Vasa Museum
“Our greatest failure has become our greatest success,” quipped the tour guide at the Vasa Museum on Djurgården island. Thankfully for us the Vasa was preserved perfectly in the brackish water of the Baltic, ready for rediscovery, study, and enjoyment over 300 years after it was built.
The Vasa was designed to sail as a war ship for about 30 years, but instead it toppled over and sank within the first hour of its maiden voyage in 1628. It was a case of trying a new innovation in design (two decks of canons instead of one) and not quite getting the math right (a meter wider and more ballast would have solved the problem). About thirty members of the 100+ crew died in the wreck.
Although it’s a tragic story involving the needless loss of human life, having the ship restored and available for viewing now gives us incredible insight into the investment in craftsmanship and the difficult life of sailors. In 1961 the Vasa was salvaged from the bottom of the Baltic. The boat was parked in the harbor of Djurgarden and kept wet while restoration work took place. Three walls were built around the ship. Eventually, when the restoration was complete, the final wall was built and the building drained of water. The seven-story museum allows you to view the ship from different angles and levels. The carving and ornamentation is incredibly detailed and regal. The museum is dark and cool to help preserve the Vasa’s condition. Definitely check out the introductory film and if you can catch a guided tour, it’s worth it.
Bottom line - If you have time for only one museum in Stockholm, I recommend this one. It’s hard not to be impressed and the gift shop is great. Bring a jacket or cardigan though—they keep it chilly inside. Admission is 190 kronor. Plan for 2 hours.
The ABBA Museum
Agnetha, Bjorn, Benny, and Anni Frid, thank you for the music! Not far from the Vasa Museum, you can enter into a celebration of the brilliance of ABBA. The ABBA Museum does a good job creating a mood. There are detailed displays, original costumes, some interactive exhibits, films, lots of interviews. I loved learning about each of the band members and was amazed by the individual careers they’d already had before they met. Then they became two couples, formed a group, and won Eurovision in 1974 with a performance of “Waterloo.” I was impressed how the museum covered each band member’s career both before and after ABBA. I also enjoyed displays about costume design, Bjorn and Benny’s songwriting process, and the inspiration behind their music videos. The museum honors each of them as professional musicians and the special moment where their talents converged to make ABBA magic. There’s even a phone in a museum that if it rings, apparently a member of ABBA is calling!
Bottom line - At 280 kronor, I would save this museum for a true ABBA fan. Plan for 90 minutes. The displays are beautifully done, there are a couple of interactive spots where you can sing and even get on stage with holographic ABBA. I felt the gift shop was underwhelming—far too little glitter. If you’re just hankering to celebrate Swedish pop music by singing through the greatest hits, I recommend booking a karaoke room in Stockholm instead.
The IKEA Museum
Regrettably I didn’t make it to this one because it is located in southern Sweden. Still I’m intrigued to visit the original building in IKEA’s hometown—was it always blue and yellow? There’s even an IKEA hotel next door to make the visit easier and give you a chance to stay in a model room designed by IKEA. In preparation for a future trip, you can take a digital deep dive into IKEA history and lore through these links:
Bottom line – isn’t every IKEA kind of a museum anyway? This probably isn’t worth renting a car to go see, but if you do have the chance to pass by, please, please visit and let me know what you think.
Do you “Bugg?”
A generation ago every young Swede knew how to bugg—a form that came from jitterbug and is related to swing! Bugg is still popular at social dances and in competition. Check out a quick clip here:
Enjoy!
Thomaida